Shop Mobile More Submit  Join Login
About Traditional Art / Professional Core Member Ryan KirbyMale/United States Recent Activity
Deviant for 6 Years
3 Month Core Membership
Statistics 24 Deviations 28 Comments 1,359 Pageviews

Newest Deviations

Favourites

No Favourites yet.

Activity


Batman, from All Star Batman and Robin by ryankirby
Batman, from All Star Batman and Robin
I stepped a little outside my comfort zone with this illo. This was a page reproduction from the comic in the title. Though I don't recall the issue. 
I inked this in the (psudo)style of Scott Williams, which is FAR from my comfort zone. I normally render with a nib, and I tend to be more of a short hatching guy. 

This piece, however, was 100% done with a brush. Despite being a primarily a nib guy (hell, 90% of all my inking up until about a year ago was all nib), I'm pretty comfortable with the brush for line work. And in a lot of cases, I prefer the brush (especially long lines that have ANY sort of curve to them). As we can see, I still have a lot to work on when it comes to rendering with the brush. 

MATERIALS:
Paper: Blue Line Pro art board* (see footnote)
Pens: Pentel Fude (to fill blacks)*
Brush: Raphael 8404 size 2
Ink: Custom blend #2* (see footnote)
Correction fluid: Pro-White


* I was really nervous about using the pentel fude on the Blue Line Pro boards. I've had bad experiences in the past with it bleeding like a stuck pig. But considering I've used the Pro boards a lot lately, and had good results with the exception of 1 page I decided to give it ago. I did not have any bleeding issues, which I was thankful for. It's also important to note, I haven't had bleeding issues with the nib like I did on the first sheet I tried, too. I've actually been pleasantly surprised with it. That is... up until the piece I inked after this. It bled like crazy with standard speedball superblack and the pentel Fude. So, I guess it's fair to say that the Pro boards (while not having the most durable surface out there) actually work pretty darn well, but the consistency is just NOT there. 

**The ink used on this piece was not my usual ink I use for the brush, which is an Eon Vortex blend. The Vortex blend tends to be on the thicker side (Vortex is a pretty thick ink, in my opinion), and gums up my brush pretty quickly... more so than standard Vortex. Being that this piece was ALL brush, I couldn't afford to take the time to rinse out my brush ever 15-30 minutes to keep a sharp point. So I used some old Speedball Super Black that's sat around for a little and has thickened a bit, and I thinned it out with some Ultradraw ink. If this would have been on Strathmore board, I probably would have just Ultradraw by itself, but it tends to wash out on Blueline and Eon board because of how thin it is. But... adding that damn ultradraw to any ink darkens it up like crazy. I chose speedball as the base because I've been really digging the sheen that speedball and ultradraw has lately.... or else I would have just defaulted to Dr. Ph Martin's Black Star Matte for this piece. 
Loading...
In my latest deviation I was raving about the Tachikawa T-77 nib. I was considering replacing the Hunt 102 with this nib once my stock of 102 nibs runs out (I think I have about 20 of them left). Then I realized I only have 3 T-77 nibs left. I quickly decided to see if I could order more. Turns out, I guess Tachikawa is only doing limited runs of these nibs (according to a source in Japan). I immediately browsed over to the store that I buy all of my imported nibs through online. They only had 5 two packs left in stock.

I cleaned them out of their remaining stock.

So if you're trying to buy T-77 nibs and your store says its out of stock... you can probably blame me. 
Joker and Harley Quinn Raw Scan by ryankirby
Joker and Harley Quinn Raw Scan
Pencils by Aethibert.

This is the raw scan, only edited using curves since I don't do any contrast manipulation during the scan.

Paper: It's actually Blue Line Pro Full Trim art board, but I printed the blueline pencils on the back of the board. This is something I typically do when inking pencils sent to me digitally, or that I have scanned and reprinted to preserve the original pencils. The reason being, is most people expect to see the page/artist/book information at the top for original art. However, trying to print the original scan on the face of the board causes a misalignment of the bleed/trim/safe borders and looks absolutely horrible. I don't really notice the difference when inking on the face or back of 2+ ply bristol, so this gives the best result for me for an end product.

Ink: Custom ink I blended* (see footnote) & Eon Vortex. The Eon Vortex was the original ink I was using to fill the blacks on Harley's abdomen & leg. I ended up switching to my custom blend ink for the bats and her hat, and the blacks on Joker. Why you ask? Well the Eon Vortex wasn't playing too well with the Blue Line Pro board, which seems to have almost a waxy like feel. It wasn't laying as smooth as it does on Eon Board or Strathmore and was causing awful brush strokes (which you can still see). Nor was it as dark as I wanted it in contrast to my line work. 

Pens: Hunt 102, Tachikawa T-77 Maru**, and Micron sizes 005, 01, & 03 (used mainly on the gun and some of the hatching. Harley's Eyes were also done with the 005 micron because I started to have some flow issues on my nibs)

Brushes: Raphael 8404 Size 2, Winsor & Newton Series 7 Miniature Size 2 (used to cut into the blacks with the Pro White), and a Winsor & Newton Series 7 size 2 was used at one point... But I don't remember when (I think it's the brush I used to spot the blacks on Harley with the Vortex). 

White ink: Pro White


* I blended my own ink out of necessity for working with certain boards. I typically use Ultradraw ink for my nib work, and began to really enjoy it for brush work when I ran out of Eon Vortex. It's a darker ink than the Vortex, and tends to lay down with decent opacity on Strathmore & Canson bristol. It flows great (probably one of the best flowing inks I have), and I get great results with it on ALL of my nibs. I have issues from time to time with most of my inks when used with hunt 102 nibs and Zebra G pens, which are my top 2 nibs I use typically... so I've been finding myself use the Ultradraw ink more and more. The issue is, it bleed pretty damn bad on Eon boards and Blue Line boards due to how thin it is and its high alcohol content (Isopropyl alcohol was used as the solvent in this ink by Kooh-I-Noor). So I combined the ink with Eon Vortex, with about 75% Ultradraw, 25% Eon Vortex. I found this combination to still not flow perfectly reliably, so I diluted it with Ammonia until it flowed but not to the point it started bleeding. The result was an ink that was darker & Semi Glossy, like Ultradraw. However, the increased viscosity from the Vortex ink prevents it from bleeding. It's not perfect, however. There's some odd chemistry going on which has reduced the open time on the brush a little bit. I find I have to clean my brush more frequently with this blend than standard ultra draw ink. 

** The Tachikawa T-77 Maru nib is a "soft" maru nib. It is substantially softer than a Nikko/Deleter or standard Tachikawa maru, and is slightly softer than the Zebra Soft Maru, and offers a bolder line. The touch/flexibility of the nib is VERY similar to the Hunt 102... yet allows for a thinner line (like a regular maru) and lasts much longer than a 102. The quality control is much better. The only reason I have not switched over to the T-77 nib completely instead of the 102 is because of availability.  I can get my hands on 102 nibs easily, yet the T-77 is only available in 2 packs and costs more. If I can find them in boxes of 10 like my normal maru Nibs I will probably replace the Hunt 102 completely with this nib. I highly recommend it for anyone who is fed up with the shaky quality of the Hunt 102 nibs, but still wants something with very similar characteristics. 
Loading...
Joker And Harley Quinn by ryankirby
Joker And Harley Quinn
Pencils are by Aethibert.

This is the "publication" version, meaning it was cropped at roughly page size (cropped at bleed to allow printer to trim to actual page size), and reduced to 67%. You can see the Raw Scan in my "Raw Scans" Folder.

Paper: Blue Line Pro comic board
Pens used: Hunt 102, Tachikawa T-77 Maru* (This is a fantastic nib, see footnote), and Micron sizes 005, 01, & 03 (Mainly for the gun and some of the hatching).
Ink used: Main ink used was a custom ink I blended**. To fill blacks,  I was originally using Eon Vortex, but switched to my custom blend.
Brushes used: Raphael 8404 size 2, Winsor & Newton Series 7 Minature size 2... I also used a Winsor & Newton Series 7 Size 2 at one point, but its use was very minimal. 
White Ink: Pro White


*I blended my own ink out of necessity for working with certain boards. I typically use Ultradraw ink for my nib work, and began to really enjoy it for brush work when I ran out of Eon Vortex. It's a darker ink than the Vortex, and tends to lay down with decent opacity on Strathmore & Canson bristol. It flows great (probably one of the best flowing inks I have), and I get great results with it on ALL of my nibs. I have issues from time to time with most of my inks when used with hunt 102 nibs and Zebra G pens, which are my top 2 nibs I use typically... so I've been finding myself use the Ultradraw ink more and more. The issue is, it bleed pretty damn bad on Eon boards and Blue Line boards due to how thin it is and its high alcohol content (Isopropyl alcohol was used as the solvent in this ink by Kooh-I-Noor). So I combined the ink with Eon Vortex, with about 75% Ultradraw, 25% Eon Vortex. I found this combination to still not flow perfectly reliably, so I diluted it with Ammonia until it flowed but not to the point it started bleeding. The result was an ink that was darker & Semi Glossy, like Ultradraw. However, the increased viscosity from the Vortex ink prevents it from bleeding. It's not perfect, however. There's some odd chemistry going on which has reduced the open time on the brush a little bit. I find I have to clean my brush more frequently with this blend than standard ultra draw ink.

**The Tachikawa T-77 Maru nib is a "soft" maru nib. It is substantially softer than a Nikko/Deleter or standard Tachikawa maru, and is slightly softer than the Zebra Soft Maru, and offers a bolder line. The touch/flexibility of the nib is VERY similar to the Hunt 102... yet allows for a thinner line (like a regular maru) and lasts much longer than a 102. The quality control is much better. The only reason I have not switched over to the T-77 nib completely instead of the 102 is because of availability.  I can get my hands on 102 nibs easily, yet the T-77 is only available in 2 packs and costs more. If I can find them in boxes of 10 like my normal maru Nibs I will probably replace the Hunt 102 completely with this nib. I highly recommend it for anyone who is fed up with the shaky quality of the Hunt 102 nibs, but still wants something with very similar characteristics.

Loading...
Adam Warren pencils for Marvel, my inks by ryankirby
Adam Warren pencils for Marvel, my inks
Title says it all. Pencil by Adam Warren. Inks by me. 

Paper: Eon art board
Pens: Hunt 102, Deleter Maru, Tachikawa Saji, and Zebra G.
Ink: Eon Vortex & Dr. PH Martins Black Star Matte
Brushes: Winsor & Newton Series 7 size 2 & Minature Size 2, Raphael 8408 size 2
Pens: Microns Size 005, 01, & 03 for background
Process white: Deleter no 2
Loading...

deviantID

ryankirby
Ryan Kirby
Artist | Professional | Traditional Art
United States
Current Residence: St Lucie, FL
Favourite genre of music: This changes too much.....
Favourite style of art: Manga & Western Comics
Operating System: Windows 10
Traditional or Digital?!: Traditional all the way. Nothing beats going through a box of Hunt 102 nibs trying to find a decent one!
Interests
That's right!

If you want to have me ink any of your work, all you need to do is send me a 300dpi min image of your pencils (please make sure they're tight if you don't want me taking artistic creativity with your work lol). 

I'm willing to do sequential art as well, under the stipulation I can use the inks for my inking portfolio. 

Upon completion you will receive your choice of file: high resolution bitmap (1200 dpi) or high resolution tiff (please specify desired resolution and if you want grayscale or threshold black and white).

You get inks, and I get practice! Win-win, right?!

EDIT: I just thought I'd also do a little update of my first journal entry that talk about what supplies I use, as they've changed a little.

To get this out there, the total list of supplies I use for my work are as follows:

Paper - (I use a lot of different paper depending on what I can get my hands on) Strathmore 500 plate, Eon HD Plate, I-C B4 Manga paper, Strathmore 400 3-ply (and 4-ply!) Plate. There's other paper I use as backups, or for less important work: Canson Artist Series Bristol smooth, Deleter B4 Manga paper*, and Strathmore 300/Canson Foundation bristol. 

Fine-point Pens: Sakura Microns & Staedtler Pigment Liners

Traditional Pens: These are what I use for 99% of my inking - Zebra & Tachikawa G pen (depending on mood), with various holders. Tachikawa & Nikko maru pens (with the occasional Deleter nib). 

Brushes: Raphael 8404 sizes 2 & 4 (I do have some Winsor & Newton Series 7 brushes, but I like the Raphael better)

Ink: Pilot Drafting Ink, Kooh-I-Noor Ultradraw, Dr. Ph Martin's Black Star Matte, and Eon Vortex. I have 16 different inks on hand that I cycle through depending on what the piece I'm working on is and what tools I'll be using are, but these are the main ones I use. 

Pencils: Staedtler 2mm lead holder w HB lead & Non-Photo blue lead. Staedtler 0.7mm & 0.5mm mechanical pencils (with 2B & 2H lead, respectively). Rotring 500 w Pilot Neox Non-photo Blue lead. Prismacolor Col-Erase NonPhoto Blue. (For full pencil drawings I use Staedler & Koh-I-Noor pencils of various densities 4h-9b). I've slowly been moving away from the mechanical pencils and using the lead holder more and more. Now-a-days I only use mechanical pencils on extreme details or backgrounds. 

Erasers: Kokuyo Campus B/HB, Pentel Ain, & Prisma Color Kneeded eraser

Digital work: Photoshop CS6 (I really prefer older versions of photoshop, namely 6. But I no longer have my copies). Currently no tablet. 90% of my art is done traditionally. Only screentoning is done digitally.

OS: Windows 10


* Footnote about Deleter paper: The quality has seriously declined, to my dismay. Deleter manga paper is the easiest to get a hold of, sadly. However, the surface is NOT durable at all anymore. The surface easily tears when inking, even with a G nib, which leads to bleeding. I couldn't imagine successfully using screen tones on this paper either. I have since switched to I-C manuscript paper, which is pretty damn amazing. All of the pros are using I-C paper and tones, these days, and for good reason. 
  • Listening to: Machinae Supremacy - Beyond Good and Evil
  • Reading: Boku wa Tomodachi ga Sukunai
  • Watching: Maken-Ki!
  • Playing: Aion
  • Eating: Dominos (ew)
  • Drinking: Coca-cola

Comments


Add a Comment:
 
:iconsuki-manga:
Suki-Manga Featured By Owner Jun 2, 2015   Traditional Artist
thank you for the watch! :w00t:
Reply
:iconryankirby:
ryankirby Featured By Owner Jun 2, 2015  Professional Traditional Artist
My pleasure!
Reply
:iconyuumeri:
yuumeri Featured By Owner Jun 1, 2015  Hobbyist Digital Artist
Thank you for the watchHomura Bowing Icon
Reply
:iconryankirby:
ryankirby Featured By Owner Jun 1, 2015  Professional Traditional Artist
My pleasure
Reply
:iconriari-chi:
riari-chi Featured By Owner May 30, 2015  Hobbyist
Ahh, thank you so much for watching! :iconblushuplz:
Reply
:iconryankirby:
ryankirby Featured By Owner May 30, 2015  Professional Traditional Artist
My pleasure!
Reply
:icongxsion:
GXsion Featured By Owner Oct 18, 2009  Hobbyist
Thanks for the watch! :dance:
Reply
:iconryankirby:
ryankirby Featured By Owner Oct 22, 2009  Professional Traditional Artist
My pleasure!
Reply
Add a Comment: